Remaining faithful to its history, the Le Locle-based
Manufacture has added a new model to its Métier d’Art collection which
celebrates the age-old specialist art of cloisonné enamel. This difficult
technique, which requires patience and attention to detail, brings exceptional
precision to the design, as well as unique and long-lasting colour rendering.
The mythological theme of this new model represents both the
manufacture’s heritage and the underlying principles that guide it: industry,
finesse and expertise.
VULCAN, THE DIVINE
CRAFTSMAN
The legendary talented craftsman with an unrivalled genius
for manufacturing complex items, famed for their indestructibility, Vulcan
(known as Vulcain in French, and Hephaestus in Greek mythology) is the god of
fire, metal and smithery.
He was the most hard-working and industrious of all those
dwelling in Olympus. He worked for the other Gods, providing them with weapons,
jewellery and other divine objects, which only he had the skill to produce.
All the works forged for the Gods, such as Poseidon’s
trident, Artemis’ and Apollo’s arrows, Achille’s and Aeneus’ weapons,
Hermione’s necklace, Ariadne’s crown and Jupiter’s thunderbolts, can be attributed
to him. Vulcan’s symbols are a hammer and anvil.
50S PRESIDENTS’ CLOISONNÉ GRAND FEU “THE VULCAIN”
Limited Edition of 30 pieces
The Case
Case: 5N 18K pink gold
Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain
Dial: “Grand Feu” cloisonné enamel “The Vulcain”
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height: 14.60 mm
Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 5 ATM
Manufacture Vulcain Self-Winding Cricket Calibre V-20
Movement: 12-lignes mechanical unidirectional self-winding
alarm calibre, ceramic ball bearings, 36 jewels, 234 components, double barrel,
equipped with Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°
Decoration: rhodium coating, Côtes de Genève motifs,
blued screws
Functions: hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Duration of the alarm: circa 20 seconds
STRAP
Strap: claret Louisiana alligator leather
Dimensions: 22/18 mm
Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold pin buckle
THE CREATION OF A GRAND FEU CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL DIAL
Amongst the many different types of enamelling, it is the
cloisonné technique which produces dials with the greatest precision in the
design and colours which are both durable and of exceptional quality.
The difficulty of the cloisonné technique lies in the meticulousness
and patience required to execute the designs in fine gold wire – scarcely
thicker than a hair – which outline the subject and prevent the colours from
running.
The craftsman then gently applies the enamel to each cell
using a goose quill. The enameller then repeats this operation as many times as
is necessary to produce colour gradations of the highest possible quality.
To achieve the desired quality, a dial such as The Vulcain requires more than three weeks of work from the guilloché to the finish, and at
least fifteen firings at about 800 degrees Celsius. Grand Feu enamel is one of the most difficult techniques in the art of watch decoration, creating a finish which is unique, unchanging and highly sophisticated.
