Press Release; The 50S Presidents' The Vulcain – Enamel

Remaining faithful to its history, the Le Locle-based Manufacture has added a new model to its Métier d’Art collection which celebrates the age-old specialist art of cloisonné enamel. This difficult technique, which requires patience and attention to detail, brings excep­tional precision to the design, as well as unique and long-lasting colour rendering.

The mythological theme of this new model represents both the manufacture’s heritage and the underlying principles that guide it: industry, finesse and expertise.

 VULCAN, THE DIVINE CRAFTSMAN

The legendary talented craftsman with an unrival­led genius for manufacturing complex items, famed for their indestructibility, Vulcan (known as Vulcain in French, and Hephaestus in Greek mythology) is the god of fire, metal and smithery.

He was the most hard-working and industrious of all those dwelling in Olympus. He worked for the other Gods, providing them with weapons, jewellery and other divine objects, which only he had the skill to produce.

All the works forged for the Gods, such as Poseidon’s trident, Artemis’ and Apollo’s arrows, Achille’s and Ae­neus’ weapons, Hermione’s necklace, Ariadne’s crown and Jupiter’s thunderbolts, can be attributed to him. Vulcan’s symbols are a hammer and anvil.

50S PRESIDENTS’ CLOISONNÉ GRAND FEU “THE VULCAIN”

Limited Edition of 30 pieces

The Case

Case: 5N 18K pink gold

Case-back: sapphire revealing the stylised “V” for Vulcain

Dial: “Grand Feu” cloisonné enamel “The Vulcain”

Diameter: 42.00 mm

Height: 14.60 mm

Glass: domed shape sapphire crystal

Water resistance: 5 ATM

Manufacture Vulcain Self-Winding Cricket Calibre V-20

Movement: 12-lignes mechanical unidirectional self-winding alarm calibre, ceramic ball bearings, 36 jewels, 234 components, double barrel, equipped with Exactomatic system, lift angle 48°

Decoration: rhodium coating, Côtes de Genève motifs,

blued screws

Functions: hour, minute, centre seconds, alarm

Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour

Power reserve: 42 hours

Duration of the alarm: circa 20 seconds

STRAP

Strap: claret Louisiana alligator leather

Dimensions: 22/18 mm

Buckle: 5N 18K pink gold pin buckle 

THE CREATION OF A GRAND FEU CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL DIAL

Amongst the many different types of enamelling, it is the cloisonné technique which produces dials with the greatest precision in the design and colours which are both durable and of exceptional quality.

The difficulty of the cloisonné technique lies in the meticu­lousness and patience required to execute the designs in fine gold wire – scarcely thicker than a hair – which outline the subject and prevent the colours from running. 

Once the guilloché dial has been refinished by hand, the application of these gold outlines, or "cloisons" can start. The craftsman starts to apply these gold wires, respecting the design and illustration provided. After the "cloisons" are bonded in place, the highly delicate process of soldering the wires can commence.

The craftsman then gently applies the enamel to each cell using a goose quill. The enameller then repeats this operation as many times as is necessary to produce colour gradations of the highest possible quality. Next comes the surface finishing step, in which a diamond file is used to smooth the enamel, wires and supporting gold plate to create a level finish.

To achieve the desired quality, a dial such as The Vulcain requires more than three weeks of work from the guilloché to the finish, and at least fifteen firings at about 800 degrees Celsius. Grand Feu enamel is one of the most difficult techniques in the art of watch decoration, creating a finish which is unique, unchanging and highly sophisticated.