Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Meeting Steven Holtzman of Maîtres Du Temps.

Maîtres Du Temps, a relatively young watch brand, has been gaining a strong following in recent years. Having heard of it, I had a keen interest in viewing their collection, hoping to gain a better understanding of their perspective on watchmaking. With thanks to Peter Chong of www.deployant.com I was able to meet up with their founder, Steven Holtzman during a press luncheon last week. I was delighted to be given the opportunity to hear him share about his passion and innovation as well as how he plans to move forward with the brand.

Peter Chong Editorial Director of  www.deployant.com introduced Steven Holtzman

Founder Steven Holtzman shared with us the brand's philosophy and strategy. 




Right: Walter Ribaga (Director of Operations, Maîtres Du Temps)


Maîtres Du Temps movemen
Left: Two disc Date wheels with the Month and Day barrels located on the top and bottom of the assembly.
Right: Rotor details.                                                                                             

The rolling bars for month or day indicators 
Top: The barrel (rolling bar) is made of raw aluminum alloy.
Middle: After anodizing and engraved with the months of the year
Bottom: View of the hollowed internal of the barrel.    

Maîtres Du Temps Chapter 1 is a massive watch with heavy complication (pun intended) featuring a tourbillon, retrograde GMT, retrograde date and distinctive barrels showing the moon phase (top) and day (bottom) indication. Oh .....throw in a monopusher chronograph too!        

Safety lock: Slide and press the pushers to activate the various complication.




Definitely too big for my wrist :)


Maîtres Du Temps Chapter 2 incorporates an instantaneous triple calendar and big date. 



Maîtres Du Temps Chapter 2 TCR (Triple Calendar Round)




Maîtres Du Temps Chapter 3 Midnight Blue Red Gold, resulted from the collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and Andreas Strehler. Kari fans can instantly recognize Kari's signature dial design for this timepiece. My favorite of the three because it's classic looking!   

The Chapter 3 has an intriguing complication. Activate a pusher on the crown and it will reveal the day/night indicator at 12 o'clock and a second time zone at 6 o'clock. By pressing the pusher again, the dial panels will slide back to hide the indicators.
   



Close up of the beautiful guilloche dial.

Movement details


The case size of 42 mm is perfect!

A splendid lunch.....thanks to Maîtres Du Temps and Deployant!

Thursday, June 18, 2015

An Interview With Max Busser..

Here is a short interview with Max Busser of MB&F that I would like to share with my readers. I want to thank Max for taking the time to answer my questions despite his busy schedule....



Zach: Firstly, I would like to congratulate you on the 10th anniversary of MB&F and the launch of the HMX. Much has been said about the watch so I’ll just focus on MB&F and you. Could you kindly share how it was growing up and how it shaped you as an entrepreneur?

Max: I do not think that there was much entrepreneurial spirit around me when I was growing up. No one in my social or family circle was an entrepreneur or artist. So even though I dreamed of becoming a car designer, it seemed normal to choose instead to become an engineer and to seek a job in a multi-national company. A safe choice. I did a lot of safe in those days. But at the end of my Masters 24 years ago, I took my first ever life-changing gut decision, and instead of entering Procter & Gamble, I chose an ailing little watch company called Jaeger-LeCoultre. I think I followed as much Henry-John Belmont who quickly became a surrogate father to me, as my passion for beautiful watchmaking.
Saving JLC with that little team made me so happy. It gave me a meaning. Most people don’t see how their job matters. We were so small and in such bad shape that every one of our moves altered the course. And it was exhilarating. I did not know it at the time, but I got my first taste of entrepreneurship and it became an addiction. During my seven years at JLC, I learned as much about beautiful watchmaking as how to work hard and efficiently. Then during my seven years at Harry Winston, I gradually understood who I was and what was important for me. Without those 14 years there would never been an MB&F.



Zach: There were some trying moments during these ten years, how did you manage to not only survive, but succeed in creating a following in MB&F?

Max: When I set upon creating MB&F I was ready to fail. The goal was never money – the whole business model I created is a financial nonsense (any CFO or Private Equity specialist would have had a heart attack and still would) – but Pride. I needed to try, I needed to write this chapter of my story and if I failed I would have at least gone down trying.
As such, all the issues we hit – and we had our fair share (we actually were on the verge of bankruptcy in May 2007 the month before the first piece even came out) – were just part of the journey. There were countless sleepless nights and many really scary moments, but each time we fell on our knees we found the resources to get back up on our feet. And after a moment you realize like a martial arts competitor that it’s not about avoiding the knocks and hits, it’s about knowing you will be able to get back up on your feet.
I often wondered how come we garnered such a loyal following over the years, and then one day I saw Simon Sinek’s TED talk explaining “the power of Why ?” and it made so much sense. We had spent all these years trying to express ourselves artistically without caring for what clients think, and at the same time explaining to everyone WHY we were on our creative quest. Those who “got it” (a very small minority) became part of the creative adventure themselves. We are all of us in this together.

Zach: What keeps you going and what keeps you awake at night?

Max: Creativity is an addiction and it only gets worse with time. The more you create, the more you want to create. And the M.A.D.Gallery has allowed me to meet so many incredible creators in their own field so that sparks more “performance art” pieces.
I have spent many years worrying about how to avoid the next mine we would tread on, but having survived all of them, am now more serene – even though I don’t doubt there will be many more to come !

Zach: You opened the M.A.D.Gallery in Geneva 2011 and this was followed by another in Taiwan last year. How do you access which markets are ready for such visually stunning creations? 

Max: Most were amazed that our second M.A.D.Gallery was in Taipei (instead of say New York, Singapore. Hong Kong or Shanghai). The reason we opened there was Lori Shen, who has been working with us in Taiwan for many years, and who is an extraordinary partner. As with everything we do, we work first with people and this is a prime example. Same applies for the third M.A.D.Gallery which will be open in Dubai this Autumn. We chose Dubai because our partners, the Seddiqi family have become great and trustworthy friends over the years. We both know that for them, it will not be a lucrative project but pride motivates them much more than money.



Zach: In the Press meeting, you mentioned that being small and nimble is good for MB&F and you wish to stop growing! I find it interesting because most entrepreneurs or companies will want to expand their business. Can you share your thoughts for the benefit of my readers?

Max: I had a secret goal whilst creating MB&F: to hit 300 pieces/year, 15 million Sfr (about 20 million Sing$) and 15 employees. We reached that milestone in 2013, eight years after the creation, and instead of setting another higher objective, we decided that we had reached our comfort zone and that we would not grow anymore.
I believe that if we grow, not only will we put our company in danger, but we will also lose our strongest assets: being nimble and quick, being able to take very high creative risks and enabling each member of the team to feel – rightly so – that their contribution is crucial. Also as the awareness of the brand keeps on growing but the quantities produced remain constant, it has generated this year an incredible demand – way higher than we ever expected. A good example being the complete sell-out in record time of the HMX and Melchior. Which in turn gives us more serenity to create more extreme pieces in the future…

Zach: And finally, I have to ask this clichéd interview question….Where to do you see MB&F in the next ten years?

Max: If you had told me when I launched MB&F that I would have created a round watch a few years later, I would have answered NEVER ! If you had told me I would have created an Art Gallery or a music box, I would have thought you were delusional. So it’s finally dawning on me that I have no idea what I will want to do in the next ten years. I do not know how my tastes and aspirations will evolve and who I will meet – and how that will change my creative course once more.

**For a report of the press lunch hosted by The Hour Glass authorised retailer of MB&F watches...click here

Press Release: IWC Schaffhausen Auctions Portugieser Watch That Sailed Around The World.



Schaffhausen, 11 June 2015 – IWC Schaffhausen is exclusively offering a Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph “Ocean Racer” that has been tested on the high seas at the online-only auctioneers CharityStars. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer is embracing the forthcoming finale of the Volvo Ocean Race 2014–15 as an opportunity to support the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation with the entire proceeds from the auction. Ian Walker, Skipper of the IWC-sponsored Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing(ADOR) sailing team, has been wearing the watch for the last nine months, during which his team have been battling it out with their rivals under the most extreme conditions. The highest bidder will be invited to attend the grand finale and prize-giving ceremony in Gothenburg and meet the ADOR team.



In October 2014, seven teams of the best sailors in the world set sail on the world’s toughest yacht-racing challenge covering a distance of nearly 39,000 miles, or 71,745 kilometres, around the globe. IWC Schaffhausen, returning
for a second edition as Official Timekeeper of the Volvo Ocean Race and sponsor of the ADOR team, provided each member of the latter with a Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph “Ocean Racer” (Ref. IW390216). “We dedicated this distinctly masculine sports watch to the teams’ sporting spirit and their commitment to extreme racing,” says IWC CEO Georges Kern. In support of the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation, IWC Schaffhausen will exclusively
auction off the watch which two-time Olympic silver medallist and Skipper of the ADOR team, Ian Walker, was wearing during the gruelling round-the-world sailing odyssey,which comes to a close on 27 June 2015 in Gothenburg,
Sweden. The auction is conducted by the online fundraising platform Charity Stars until 23 June 2015 on their website www.charitystars.com. The auction package includes the watch worn by Skipper Ian Walker and an invitation
to the grand finale of the Volvo Ocean Race 2014–15 in Gothenburg. The new owner of the watch will be part of the festivities, participate in a sailing session on board.




A Watch To Circumnavigate The World...

Azzam,the ADOR boat, witness the in-port race and have the opportunity to speak with the ADOR sailing team and IWC representatives. Those interested in bidding for the watch can sign up to participate in the auction via Facebook,
Twitter or Instagram. With the auction, IWC Schaffhausen is strengthening its long-term commitment to the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation, to which the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer is donating the entire proceeds from the auction to help support children and young people in need across the globe.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph “Ocean Racer” with its beautifully laid-out silver-plated dial and blued numerals, hands and indices is the second Yacht Club model dedicated to the partnership between IWC and the Volvo Ocean Race and is available in a limited edition of 1,000 pieces. Featuring the IWC-manufactured 89361-calibre movement, the eye-catching timepiece has one of the most modern and robust chronograph movements available, featuring a flyback function and aggregate timing of up to 12 hours shown on an analogue display with two hands in a subdial. It is water-resistant to 6 bar and is the
only Portugieser model with crown protection as well as luminescent hands and indices. Equipped with these technical features, the watch is a reliable partner in any situation. In an allusion to extreme sailing, the 360-degree rotor is modelled on a ship’s wheel and is visible through the sapphire-glass case back. Engraved on the outer ring of the back cover is “IWC PORTUGIESER YACHT CLUB
OCEAN RACER • ONE OUT OF 1000”. The timepiece is housed in a stainless-steel case and supplied with a black rubber strap featuring an alligator leather inlay.


The MB&F HMX launch in Singapore.

To celebrate the 10th anniversary of MB&F, founder Maxilimian Busser was in Singapore to launch the HMX. Inspired by supercars, the HMX resembles the HM5. Like the HM5, time is read through a side window using light reflected from two sapphire optical prisms. Using a Selita as a base movement, it features a jumping hour mechanism that can be adjusted in both directions. The HMX is limited to 80 pieces.  

 The Press luncheon was hosted by The Hour Glass at Senso Ristorante & Bar.

 Max sharing with us the development of the brand through the years.

 Max introduced the HMX.

















The HMX is limited to a small production run of 80 pieces in Grade 5 Ti and stainless steel, available in Bugatti Blue, Lotus Black, Ferrari Red and British Racing Green (20 pieces each).

Design to look like race car rocker covers, there are two caps that can be unscrew for oiling the jewelled bearings of the hour and minute discs during servicing of the watch.

The tagline "A creative adult is a child who survived" beautifully engraved on the 22K gold rotor.

  The many hours of machining resulted in this beautifully crafted case!

Strap details.

 Time is read through a side window using light reflected from two sapphire optical prisms.

  Wears pretty well on my wrist.


The Bugatti Blue and British Racing Green were the two models we got to see.

A newly acquired LM101 Frost spotted on a friend who flew in from Hong Kong for the lunch.

My interview with Max Busser here.. Interview with Max